’A Rockpool of my Childhood – so very, very poetic’

Caviare by Calvisius
Large oysters from Venø
Raw, sweet ‘Skaw’ shrimps from Sweden
Langoustines from the island of Læsø
Blue line mussels & cockles, poached in sea/mineral water 50/50
Young seaweed, beach cabbage & samphire from Sejerø and Gotland
Marinated green elderberries
Fresh apple vinaigre from Lilleø (not aged)
Unfiltered olive oil from Arbequina olives – Cordoba
Double cream from Grambogaard, Fyn
The oysters are roasted a la plancha. All of the different fish waters are lightly gel’ed with a little mineral water and agar. Serve the caviare, fish, the water gel with the sea herbs - green elderberry, vinagre, olive oil and double cream.

Marinated green elderberry -
500g green elderberry
100g seasalt
½l apple vinaigre
500g sugar

The green elderberries should be washed well, dried and salted overnight. Wash the quickly.
Warm the vinaigre and dissolve the sugar. Marinate the elderberries in a minimum of one month and preferably over the winter.

The Oysters –
For me, the oysters that I get from the Danish island of Venø are placed at the very top of my list. Together with the wonderful langoustine from the equally wonderful Læsø, Mr.Wiuff’s new season sweetcorn and my white asparagus, rhubarb and strawberries from the village of Helnæs. A happy boy, am I, when products like these come a’knocking at my kitchen door. Venø oysters have a fresh, sea, metallic start with a superb delicate cream, yet still with a meaty middle taste. The salted, sour note balances the animals violent vulgarity. Called sometimes, Whitstable oysters in Blighty, Belon in France – Ostrea edulis. Oysters from the Limfjord are deeper and richer in taste that their counterparts – in the cold, cold fjord waters they develop slower and within these areas receive ideal nutrients for this growth. The oysters are caught within specifically protected areas of water, free from aggressive algie and micro organisms. An oyster from these waters will be ready for consumption at around 2 to 3 years of age.

The Samphire, beach cabbage & sea herbs –
My beloved samphire – this little, fine maritime herb – called often for ’poor-man’s asparagus’. In Denmark it is directly translated from it most logical form – ’salturt’ or salt vegetable. Salicornia Europaea, glasswort, sea-fennel. The herb has a wonderfully fresh and intense taste of seawater, seaweed and green asparagus - tendencies of Savoy cabbage when eaten in its raw state. It most happily reminds me of late summer afternoons on the beach. That superb taste of a droplet of cold seawater on your lip, gently dried by the breeze of a warm afternoon. I have a little summer house on the Danish island of Sejerø. A splinter of an island - 12km long and 5km at its widest, it lays to the north-west of Sjælland. Sejerø is unspoilt and most pure. The harbour is a little quiet of late but the beaches are abundant with herbs and vegetables. A great deal of our vegetables and herbs are also flown down from the amazing Swedish island of Gotland. They say, that 400 million years ago, Gotland was actually a part of Australia – identical minerals and the very same fossil remains are to be found on both lands. A superb story, believe it or not – but a great story this is. On Gotland our supplier, Queen Suzanne reigns supreme.


Paul 18.12.08
Print

‘Caviare’d macaroon noir – homage Nico Ladenis’

300g icing sugar
165g ground almonds
140g egg white
35g caster sugar
½ tsp squid ink

Sift the icing sugar and the ground almonds together. Whisk the egg whites to a firm peak, continue to whisk, gradually adding the sugar, until light and glossy. Slowly and most gently fold in the icing sugar, almond and, until smooth. Colour the mix with the squid ink.

Pipe the small macaroons on to a silicone sheet and leave to dry for one hour. Bake the macaroons in a pre-heated oven set at 120 degrees for 8/10 minutes. Leave to cool and store in an airtight container.

To serve – fill the macaroons with caviar and a lightly salted, lightly whipped crème fraiche. Coloured with squid ink and flavoured with a touch of juiced lemon.


Paul 18.12.08
Print

‘Chocolate by Scharffen Berger – caviare, scrambled ’

125 ml cream 38%
25ml whole milk
75g glucose
10g honey
65g sugar
375g Scharffen berger chocolate – 70% cacao

For exactly 4 minutes, most gently warm the cream, milk, glucose, honey and sugar together. Fold in the finely chopped chocolate. Set within a suitable container.

For the ‘scrambled’ caviare – fold gently, three generous teaspoons of Baerii caviare into one teaspoon of lightly crushed Baerii caviare with half a teaspoon of really good olive oil.

Paul 18.12.08

Print

‘Pistachio water sorbet – caviare’d by Calvisius’

1l still mineral water
350g sugar
350g pistachio kernels
7g ‘Thick’n’Easy’ ice cream stabilizer (per liter sorbet) – available via internet

This recipe was developed to be finished on a ‘Paco-Jet’ machine – I am most sorry but, if you must make the sorbet, you’ll just have to invest in such a machine.
Dissolve the sugar into the mineral water, blend with the pistachio kernels and 7g of the ‘Thick’n’Easy’ stabilizer per liter sorbet. Freeze the sorbet mixture overnight within the special containers.

Run the pistachio water sorbet a minimum of four times on the ‘Paco-Jet’ machine before serving with plenty of caviare by Calvisius.
Dress with little pistachio oil, a little pistachio cream & a little hot pistachio ‘financier’ – recipe below.

‘Financier’ –
25 pieces
100g ground pistachio
25g ground almond
125g sugar
5 egg whites
30g honey
15g potato flour
90g butter
The seeds of 1 vava'u vanilla pod

Warm the ground almond, ground pistachio, sugar & egg whites over a bain marie. Mix together the honey and the potato flour – fold into the warm almond batter and warm for a further 12 minutes. Cool slighty and fill small silicone moulds with the batter and bake at 180 degrees for approx 7 minutes.

Paul 18.12.08
Print

‘Sturgeon in sturgeon’

The fillets of fresh sturgeon are lightly sea-salted overnight. Slice the sturgeon most finely and dress with the caviare vinaigrette. Serve dressed with onion leaf and the slightly warmed puree of poached celeriac.

200g fresh, lightly salted sturgeon – finely sliced for four persons
Celeriac puree –
¼ celeriac – cubed
½ l whole milk
1 large tbsp butter

Under a butter paper, poach the celeriac tender in milk. Blend the celeriac to a fine puree, adjusting with the now, celeriac-milk. Season with a little sea-salt, a touch of juiced lemon and a generous spoonful of butter. Reserve warm but, do not, under any circumstances, re-boil the puree.

Caviare vinaigrette –
1tsp finely chopped challotte
4 tsp fine, fine cut peeled cucumber
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp juiced lemon
4 generous teaspoons Calvisius caviar
2 tbsp fine chives

Gently mix the ingredients together adding the caviare and chives at the very last second, season with a little fine sea-salt and use immediately.

Paul 18.12.08
Print

Tournedos Rossini Rossini

4 small trimmed tournedos á approx. 90g
4 garlic cloves - halved
4 small branches of fresh thyme
1 small slices of fresh foie gras á approx. 50g per piece
4 small sourdough breadcroutons
1 fresh truffle
Olive oil & butter
Aged Baerii caviare

Brush the Tournedos lightly with oil, and brown very well in a heavy cast-iron pan. Add now a good spoonful of butter, thyme & garlic. Roast the Tournedos, carefully, in the pan, basting contantly, with the now caramelised, herb butter. For a beautifully rare Tournedos this process will take four to five minutes. Season the meat well with fresh black pepper and sea-salt. Let the Tournedos rest, whilst you roast the foie gras golden brown.

The Tournedos are served upon a crouton, roasted crisp in the foie gras dripping. A well truffle’d veal sauce, fresh truffle and a well aged Baerii caviare.

The Tournedos being a cut of such low fat content needs a little beefing up – what better way to add a salted, richness to the dish. Aged Baerii was a most logical solution to my gastronomic equation.


Paul 18.12.08
Print

Paul Cunningham

Without love, without heart, without passion – No food!
Paul Cunningham’s food comes from his heart and soul. Paul is a caring and gifted Englishman who found his terroir (and his wife) in Denmark; he has become truly naturalised within Scandinavian gastronomy. Paul now works as Executive Chef of the highly-acclaimed Henne Kirkeby Kro, in Western Jutland. The restaurant embodies the most remarkable dining experience in Scandinavia; an absolute must for anyone visiting Denmark.